Sights & Smells of Thailand

Some tasty treats on the streets of Chian Mai. Crickets or worms?? Deep-fried with salt.....yum. (Not included in picture: bats on a stick).

The giant recling Buddha of Bangkok!

Welcome to Ko Chang........Paradise Thailand

Favorite island in Thailand.......... :)

It's getting harder and harder to breathe

That line could describe the stifling Delhi air. (Let's see the low for this evening is a lovely 90 F, let's not even talk about the high).

But it also describe a different sort of feeling. More like the feeling you get while walking at over 5,500 meters (or over 18,000 feet) where ever step is painful. Who knew how fast you could get your heartrate up by walking.

While on the EBC (Everest Base Camp trek), altitude was a constant struggle. But we managed to suffer through and reach the gorgeous Kala Pattar where we were rewarded with an amazing 360 view of the Himalayas including an anwesome view of the full front of Everest's south side.

Moving away from my moans and groans of struggling poor pitful me up the mountain, let's mention the lives of many Nepalis, whose daily task is to serve as a porter. THese men, women, and children, carry things up this mountain. Things such as office chairs, yak meat, hay for yaks, cases of beer, TWIX candy bars, tea, bags of rice. Some of these loads are up to 200 lbs.

Nepalis are small people, and their growth is often stunted by all the physical carrying they do at such an early age. Porters typically carry loads in huge woven basket that overflowing with things (mostly things for Western tourists). The basket is strapped to their head. They walk up the mountain, heads down, with only a small wooden t-shaped stick. They used the stick to rest their basket on, when they stop for a short rest.

Most wear flip flops.

Sitting an ordering beer in any of the places along the trek, one can't help but filled with guilt. Not just at the ridiculous price of the beer. You understand why, someone had to carry it for days to get that beer to this lodge for you to drink. But, how so many people's jobs have revolved around carrying heavy loads for expeditions so rich Westerners can say they've climbed Everest or such and such peak, or for us trekkers too.

In some ways, yes, the industry has given many mountain people jobs they would not have had, and in land where agriculture does not fare so well. For the lucky who have managed guide jobs for treks and expeditions, they have been spared army careers etc. Yet, its hard to find peace in the himalayas, (for me) because I look around and see beautiful mountains, yet also a country whose people have had to rely on Western money that it's turned their culture and many livehoods to that which serves US and European interests.

I enjoyed meeting the expeditioners, and hearing climbing stories, but honestly while impressed with their physical fitness, I found them not nearly as interesting as the Nepalis that worked day in and out, hauling loads up and down to lodges, in a place where we can barely breathe. I don't think I've seen people work so hard, yet have such an amazing attitude. While I walked down the hill from Tengboche. The sherpas carrying their rice, meat, and loads, smiled and said "Namaste." They didn't look at my hiking boats, and gear with disugst, (or the fact I was merely carry a small backpack that weighed about 12 lbs).

I give my Namaste and smile in return. They climb up past me, flys circling around yak meat, and continue to the next town. But their smiles and warmth linger in the air, and leaves an impression more lasting than the snow capped peaks of Nepal.

taj, taj, taj, taj, taj, taj

the icon of India, Shah Jahan's monument to his wife (who died giving birth to his 14th child), Mumtaz Mahal. But the emperor was overthrown by his son, and imprisoned in Agra Fort where he spent the rest of his life gazing at the Taj Mahal from the window of his cell (so, the story goes).

woke up at the crack of dawn..........def not overrated.

Yamuna Yatra 2008

Yamuna Yatra 2008

Tracking Tigers in Corbett

Clutching the wooden handle, I held by breath as the mahout urged the elephant faster into the underbrush. All of four of us were hushed, our hearts racing. Up ahead, the passengers of another elephant had spotted a tiger, and were waiting for us to catch up. The mahout whispered something in Hindi. The Indian woman who was with us, suppressed a fearful cry. “What did he say?” Her husband said to us: “Don’t be afraid- there are two male tigers here.”

We caught up with the other elephant. The young girl who was seated at the front of the other elephant pointed eagerly- boucing with excitement.

They had already caught a glimpse of the lord of the jungle. We looked into the deep the brush- all we could were tangles of undergrowth. The two elephants plunged in. Suddenly, there was a collective gasp, as a male tiger, sprung out, acknowledged us briefly, before turning his back and disappearing into the undergrowth.

Then we heard a low growl and the cracking of brushes. Less than 15 feet away from us a young male tiger was in the undergrowth. Who knew that the stripes could make a creature camelfluage so well against the half-burnt grasses. He stared us down, as we stared in disbelief at the magnificent creature before us. Of course, we were still tourists, and snapped photos eagerly. Who would miss a chance to photograph a tiger so close and in its natural habitat??

For a few minutes the tiger looked at us, opening his jaw threateningly, give us a glimpses at those gigantic pearly white teeth. We all held tightly onto the elephant. The elephants shuffled a bit, and the tiger decided he had made his presence known, and darted off into the under growth.

We started back to camp. Eagerly chatting, and showing off pictures. The Mahout rewarded the elephant for his braveness by allowing him to have a little snack of leaves on the way back.

While feeling elated from the thrilling experience, a bit of guilt crawled over me. We did disturb the tigers (clearly they weren’t happy with out intrusion). I was glad to learn that there are part of the park that is completely off limit.

I guess a balance has to be made. Tigers can generate so much revenue- people are willing to pay quite to many to get a glimpse of one in the wild, that their conservation should be guaranteed. The problem is- this is not happening. There are only 1,500 tigers estimated to be left in India. A 50% decrease from a census taken (or estimated) a few years back.

Clearly, the tiger tracking tourism industry has a lot it can improve on. Bigger reserves, more space for tigers, working on less obtrusive ways of giving tourists a chance to see these big cats- are just a few.

"A tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage, and when he is exterminated - as exterminated he will be unless public opinion rallies to his support - India will be the poorer by having lost the finest of her fauna."

-Jim Corbett

Galub Jamin, an Indian Dessert

Soaked in oils, trust me this dessert makes Funnel Cake look like a health food.

To those who dare to try this delicious yet very unnutricious dessert: here's the recipe.