Monday, May 26, 2008

Welcome to Ko Chang........Paradise Thailand





Favorite island in Thailand.......... :)

Monday, May 5, 2008

It's getting harder and harder to breathe




That line could describe the stifling Delhi air. (Let's see the low for this evening is a lovely 90 F, let's not even talk about the high).

But it also describe a different sort of feeling. More like the feeling you get while walking at over 5,500 meters (or over 18,000 feet) where ever step is painful. Who knew how fast you could get your heartrate up by walking.

While on the EBC (Everest Base Camp trek), altitude was a constant struggle. But we managed to suffer through and reach the gorgeous Kala Pattar where we were rewarded with an amazing 360 view of the Himalayas including an anwesome view of the full front of Everest's south side.

Moving away from my moans and groans of struggling poor pitful me up the mountain, let's mention the lives of many Nepalis, whose daily task is to serve as a porter. THese men, women, and children, carry things up this mountain. Things such as office chairs, yak meat, hay for yaks, cases of beer, TWIX candy bars, tea, bags of rice. Some of these loads are up to 200 lbs.

Nepalis are small people, and their growth is often stunted by all the physical carrying they do at such an early age. Porters typically carry loads in huge woven basket that overflowing with things (mostly things for Western tourists). The basket is strapped to their head. They walk up the mountain, heads down, with only a small wooden t-shaped stick. They used the stick to rest their basket on, when they stop for a short rest.

Most wear flip flops.

Sitting an ordering beer in any of the places along the trek, one can't help but filled with guilt. Not just at the ridiculous price of the beer. You understand why, someone had to carry it for days to get that beer to this lodge for you to drink. But, how so many people's jobs have revolved around carrying heavy loads for expeditions so rich Westerners can say they've climbed Everest or such and such peak, or for us trekkers too.

In some ways, yes, the industry has given many mountain people jobs they would not have had, and in land where agriculture does not fare so well. For the lucky who have managed guide jobs for treks and expeditions, they have been spared army careers etc. Yet, its hard to find peace in the himalayas, (for me) because I look around and see beautiful mountains, yet also a country whose people have had to rely on Western money that it's turned their culture and many livehoods to that which serves US and European interests.

I enjoyed meeting the expeditioners, and hearing climbing stories, but honestly while impressed with their physical fitness, I found them not nearly as interesting as the Nepalis that worked day in and out, hauling loads up and down to lodges, in a place where we can barely breathe. I don't think I've seen people work so hard, yet have such an amazing attitude. While I walked down the hill from Tengboche. The sherpas carrying their rice, meat, and loads, smiled and said "Namaste." They didn't look at my hiking boats, and gear with disugst, (or the fact I was merely carry a small backpack that weighed about 12 lbs).

I give my Namaste and smile in return. They climb up past me, flys circling around yak meat, and continue to the next town. But their smiles and warmth linger in the air, and leaves an impression more lasting than the snow capped peaks of Nepal.