Tracking Tigers in Corbett

Clutching the wooden handle, I held by breath as the mahout urged the elephant faster into the underbrush. All of four of us were hushed, our hearts racing. Up ahead, the passengers of another elephant had spotted a tiger, and were waiting for us to catch up. The mahout whispered something in Hindi. The Indian woman who was with us, suppressed a fearful cry. “What did he say?” Her husband said to us: “Don’t be afraid- there are two male tigers here.”

We caught up with the other elephant. The young girl who was seated at the front of the other elephant pointed eagerly- boucing with excitement.

They had already caught a glimpse of the lord of the jungle. We looked into the deep the brush- all we could were tangles of undergrowth. The two elephants plunged in. Suddenly, there was a collective gasp, as a male tiger, sprung out, acknowledged us briefly, before turning his back and disappearing into the undergrowth.

Then we heard a low growl and the cracking of brushes. Less than 15 feet away from us a young male tiger was in the undergrowth. Who knew that the stripes could make a creature camelfluage so well against the half-burnt grasses. He stared us down, as we stared in disbelief at the magnificent creature before us. Of course, we were still tourists, and snapped photos eagerly. Who would miss a chance to photograph a tiger so close and in its natural habitat??

For a few minutes the tiger looked at us, opening his jaw threateningly, give us a glimpses at those gigantic pearly white teeth. We all held tightly onto the elephant. The elephants shuffled a bit, and the tiger decided he had made his presence known, and darted off into the under growth.

We started back to camp. Eagerly chatting, and showing off pictures. The Mahout rewarded the elephant for his braveness by allowing him to have a little snack of leaves on the way back.

While feeling elated from the thrilling experience, a bit of guilt crawled over me. We did disturb the tigers (clearly they weren’t happy with out intrusion). I was glad to learn that there are part of the park that is completely off limit.

I guess a balance has to be made. Tigers can generate so much revenue- people are willing to pay quite to many to get a glimpse of one in the wild, that their conservation should be guaranteed. The problem is- this is not happening. There are only 1,500 tigers estimated to be left in India. A 50% decrease from a census taken (or estimated) a few years back.

Clearly, the tiger tracking tourism industry has a lot it can improve on. Bigger reserves, more space for tigers, working on less obtrusive ways of giving tourists a chance to see these big cats- are just a few.

"A tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage, and when he is exterminated - as exterminated he will be unless public opinion rallies to his support - India will be the poorer by having lost the finest of her fauna."

-Jim Corbett

Galub Jamin, an Indian Dessert

Soaked in oils, trust me this dessert makes Funnel Cake look like a health food.

To those who dare to try this delicious yet very unnutricious dessert: here's the recipe.

Uh-oh, it's Holi time already

The Start of Holi:

Holi, a spring festival of India, starts in a couple weeks. However, the activities have already begun, and I’ve already been made a victim of Holi

Also known as the Festival of Colors, it’s a holiday that’s marked with much debauchery, including, colored-powered being thrown- well- everywhere.

Now, the colors haven’t started yet. But, the children still have the water balloons and water cannons armed and ready. While walking to work, I had noticed a water fight seemed to be ensuing. It continued for a couple days, until I realize that these water balloons were an early Holi celebration. Luckily, the neighborhood kids has bad aim and I made it home safely. Later that evening while walking to Hindi class, I was attacked and struck- by a water balloon soaking my shirt. Giggling abounded an apartment three stories up.

Startled, I had to laugh at the mischievous trouble-making school-boys.

Holi is a week away. Have managed to talk a dozen or so kids out of throwing water balloons. Excited to see what this festival of colors will bring.

Tibet March from Dharamsala

'Yes, I'm NOT American!'

When chatting with those who have not visited the U.S. or just not as familar with English language dialects, I am bombarded with interesting guesses of my nationality. Irish, British, Australian, Canadian, Swedish, etc.

Most don't guess American and I am almost relutant to admit my true nationality, ( because i'm worried i may encountear hostility).....just a bad case of backpacker nationality envy.

Australians are the most well-travelled nationality in the world. Jumbled after them are the many European nations, and of course Canadians who backpacking around the world seems like a rite of passage for all.

In terms of travel adornments, upon glancing at two Candians backpacks on a sleeper train returning to Delhi, we noticed the blatant Candian decorations. Stickers, sown on patachs of their flag, etc. made it impossible to mistake the two Canadian women for well.... Americans.

I turn to my own bag- there is not God Bless America, or I <3 NY, or flag patch on any of my bags, nor would I ever put one on there. I guess as enveryone wants to make sure they tell their host country where they are from (and that it is most definitely not America), we continue to hide our nationality (or at least make it a tad more subtle).

But hey, maybe they just need to design a cooler American stereotype sticker, and it has nothing to do with politics. :)

Environmental T-Shirts

My NGO is making/selling t-shirts. Send an email if interested. Here's a pic of my favorite.

Frisbee Tournament in India?!

Here’s a few pics of the all Indian Champion Frisbee team: “Stray Dogs in Sweaters.”

The name: in delhi there are A LOT of stray dogs. And suddenly, come winter time, all these dogs are suddenly (and mysteriously) wearing old sweaters.


Hmmmmmm, not quite a fair height matchup when playing Ahmedebad.