Sights & Smells of Thailand

Some tasty treats on the streets of Chian Mai. Crickets or worms?? Deep-fried with salt.....yum. (Not included in picture: bats on a stick).

The giant recling Buddha of Bangkok!

Welcome to Ko Chang........Paradise Thailand

Favorite island in Thailand.......... :)

It's getting harder and harder to breathe

That line could describe the stifling Delhi air. (Let's see the low for this evening is a lovely 90 F, let's not even talk about the high).

But it also describe a different sort of feeling. More like the feeling you get while walking at over 5,500 meters (or over 18,000 feet) where ever step is painful. Who knew how fast you could get your heartrate up by walking.

While on the EBC (Everest Base Camp trek), altitude was a constant struggle. But we managed to suffer through and reach the gorgeous Kala Pattar where we were rewarded with an amazing 360 view of the Himalayas including an anwesome view of the full front of Everest's south side.

Moving away from my moans and groans of struggling poor pitful me up the mountain, let's mention the lives of many Nepalis, whose daily task is to serve as a porter. THese men, women, and children, carry things up this mountain. Things such as office chairs, yak meat, hay for yaks, cases of beer, TWIX candy bars, tea, bags of rice. Some of these loads are up to 200 lbs.

Nepalis are small people, and their growth is often stunted by all the physical carrying they do at such an early age. Porters typically carry loads in huge woven basket that overflowing with things (mostly things for Western tourists). The basket is strapped to their head. They walk up the mountain, heads down, with only a small wooden t-shaped stick. They used the stick to rest their basket on, when they stop for a short rest.

Most wear flip flops.

Sitting an ordering beer in any of the places along the trek, one can't help but filled with guilt. Not just at the ridiculous price of the beer. You understand why, someone had to carry it for days to get that beer to this lodge for you to drink. But, how so many people's jobs have revolved around carrying heavy loads for expeditions so rich Westerners can say they've climbed Everest or such and such peak, or for us trekkers too.

In some ways, yes, the industry has given many mountain people jobs they would not have had, and in land where agriculture does not fare so well. For the lucky who have managed guide jobs for treks and expeditions, they have been spared army careers etc. Yet, its hard to find peace in the himalayas, (for me) because I look around and see beautiful mountains, yet also a country whose people have had to rely on Western money that it's turned their culture and many livehoods to that which serves US and European interests.

I enjoyed meeting the expeditioners, and hearing climbing stories, but honestly while impressed with their physical fitness, I found them not nearly as interesting as the Nepalis that worked day in and out, hauling loads up and down to lodges, in a place where we can barely breathe. I don't think I've seen people work so hard, yet have such an amazing attitude. While I walked down the hill from Tengboche. The sherpas carrying their rice, meat, and loads, smiled and said "Namaste." They didn't look at my hiking boats, and gear with disugst, (or the fact I was merely carry a small backpack that weighed about 12 lbs).

I give my Namaste and smile in return. They climb up past me, flys circling around yak meat, and continue to the next town. But their smiles and warmth linger in the air, and leaves an impression more lasting than the snow capped peaks of Nepal.

taj, taj, taj, taj, taj, taj

the icon of India, Shah Jahan's monument to his wife (who died giving birth to his 14th child), Mumtaz Mahal. But the emperor was overthrown by his son, and imprisoned in Agra Fort where he spent the rest of his life gazing at the Taj Mahal from the window of his cell (so, the story goes).

woke up at the crack of dawn..........def not overrated.

Yamuna Yatra 2008

Yamuna Yatra 2008

Tracking Tigers in Corbett

Clutching the wooden handle, I held by breath as the mahout urged the elephant faster into the underbrush. All of four of us were hushed, our hearts racing. Up ahead, the passengers of another elephant had spotted a tiger, and were waiting for us to catch up. The mahout whispered something in Hindi. The Indian woman who was with us, suppressed a fearful cry. “What did he say?” Her husband said to us: “Don’t be afraid- there are two male tigers here.”

We caught up with the other elephant. The young girl who was seated at the front of the other elephant pointed eagerly- boucing with excitement.

They had already caught a glimpse of the lord of the jungle. We looked into the deep the brush- all we could were tangles of undergrowth. The two elephants plunged in. Suddenly, there was a collective gasp, as a male tiger, sprung out, acknowledged us briefly, before turning his back and disappearing into the undergrowth.

Then we heard a low growl and the cracking of brushes. Less than 15 feet away from us a young male tiger was in the undergrowth. Who knew that the stripes could make a creature camelfluage so well against the half-burnt grasses. He stared us down, as we stared in disbelief at the magnificent creature before us. Of course, we were still tourists, and snapped photos eagerly. Who would miss a chance to photograph a tiger so close and in its natural habitat??

For a few minutes the tiger looked at us, opening his jaw threateningly, give us a glimpses at those gigantic pearly white teeth. We all held tightly onto the elephant. The elephants shuffled a bit, and the tiger decided he had made his presence known, and darted off into the under growth.

We started back to camp. Eagerly chatting, and showing off pictures. The Mahout rewarded the elephant for his braveness by allowing him to have a little snack of leaves on the way back.

While feeling elated from the thrilling experience, a bit of guilt crawled over me. We did disturb the tigers (clearly they weren’t happy with out intrusion). I was glad to learn that there are part of the park that is completely off limit.

I guess a balance has to be made. Tigers can generate so much revenue- people are willing to pay quite to many to get a glimpse of one in the wild, that their conservation should be guaranteed. The problem is- this is not happening. There are only 1,500 tigers estimated to be left in India. A 50% decrease from a census taken (or estimated) a few years back.

Clearly, the tiger tracking tourism industry has a lot it can improve on. Bigger reserves, more space for tigers, working on less obtrusive ways of giving tourists a chance to see these big cats- are just a few.

"A tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage, and when he is exterminated - as exterminated he will be unless public opinion rallies to his support - India will be the poorer by having lost the finest of her fauna."

-Jim Corbett

Galub Jamin, an Indian Dessert

Soaked in oils, trust me this dessert makes Funnel Cake look like a health food.

To those who dare to try this delicious yet very unnutricious dessert: here's the recipe.

Uh-oh, it's Holi time already

The Start of Holi:

Holi, a spring festival of India, starts in a couple weeks. However, the activities have already begun, and I’ve already been made a victim of Holi

Also known as the Festival of Colors, it’s a holiday that’s marked with much debauchery, including, colored-powered being thrown- well- everywhere.

Now, the colors haven’t started yet. But, the children still have the water balloons and water cannons armed and ready. While walking to work, I had noticed a water fight seemed to be ensuing. It continued for a couple days, until I realize that these water balloons were an early Holi celebration. Luckily, the neighborhood kids has bad aim and I made it home safely. Later that evening while walking to Hindi class, I was attacked and struck- by a water balloon soaking my shirt. Giggling abounded an apartment three stories up.

Startled, I had to laugh at the mischievous trouble-making school-boys.

Holi is a week away. Have managed to talk a dozen or so kids out of throwing water balloons. Excited to see what this festival of colors will bring.

Tibet March from Dharamsala

'Yes, I'm NOT American!'

When chatting with those who have not visited the U.S. or just not as familar with English language dialects, I am bombarded with interesting guesses of my nationality. Irish, British, Australian, Canadian, Swedish, etc.

Most don't guess American and I am almost relutant to admit my true nationality, ( because i'm worried i may encountear hostility).....just a bad case of backpacker nationality envy.

Australians are the most well-travelled nationality in the world. Jumbled after them are the many European nations, and of course Canadians who backpacking around the world seems like a rite of passage for all.

In terms of travel adornments, upon glancing at two Candians backpacks on a sleeper train returning to Delhi, we noticed the blatant Candian decorations. Stickers, sown on patachs of their flag, etc. made it impossible to mistake the two Canadian women for well.... Americans.

I turn to my own bag- there is not God Bless America, or I <3 NY, or flag patch on any of my bags, nor would I ever put one on there. I guess as enveryone wants to make sure they tell their host country where they are from (and that it is most definitely not America), we continue to hide our nationality (or at least make it a tad more subtle).

But hey, maybe they just need to design a cooler American stereotype sticker, and it has nothing to do with politics. :)

Environmental T-Shirts

My NGO is making/selling t-shirts. Send an email if interested. Here's a pic of my favorite.

Frisbee Tournament in India?!

Here’s a few pics of the all Indian Champion Frisbee team: “Stray Dogs in Sweaters.”

The name: in delhi there are A LOT of stray dogs. And suddenly, come winter time, all these dogs are suddenly (and mysteriously) wearing old sweaters.


Hmmmmmm, not quite a fair height matchup when playing Ahmedebad.

A World Heritage Playboy Site

Khajuraho is a village (now more of a Tourist town) located in Madhya Pradesh. In this still hard to get to village, you can find the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples.

What makes them so famous? It could be they were built around 950-1050 A.D. and are very well preserved. Or perhaps the intricate designs- that are so lifelike. Maybe their size. They are enormous. Many of the carvings depict everyday life of the common Indian at that time….from women applying make-up, musicians, potters, farmers, etc. It’s a unique insight into dailylife back then.

Clearly that’s what makes it such a popular tourist destination. Nothing to do with the erotic sculptures on the outside walls, that make you do a double take. Only 10% of the carvings are of tantric sex. They are on the outer temple walls, and their graphicness startles you when you realize what the scene is depicting.

There are some entertaining explanations of the erotic carvings…including one which suggested the temples served as an instructional guide for young Brahamn boys.

Welcome to Pakistan!

Well, it's not quite a welcome sign that's there....





but here's a few pics from the closing ceremony at the Wagh border between India and Pakistan:

above: ridiculous marching (goes with the ridiculous hats).






Not sure if this video will work.....

Rice Fast

I’m currently on a rice fast due to an unpleasant experience. However, this is India- rice is everywhere. I’ve made it 48 hours so far without eating rice or keeling over from hunger. Amazing, I know. We’ll see how long I can keep it up.

Foods I’ve been craving

(I know it’s only been six weeks compared to dan’s six months- but still….)

1. sushi
   
2. a steak quesadilla from casa sanchez
3. chicken wings- Lewisburg style (specifically Mikes 512)
4. a chipotle burrito (hmm, a Mexican theme? Sans rice)
5. salmon and brie- (thanks to mom for helping me out with this one)
6. seafood in general
7. raw vegetables…..a fresh green salad never sounded so amazing

Food I May never eat again Upon Returning to the States

(perhaps a slight exaggeration...)

1. rice
2. chapattis
3. Dal
4. cauliflower
5. momos- (okay, I jest- momos are amazing)

For fish lovers...

Un-India related, but.....

This is a petition by Oceana to get the FMI (Food Marketing Institute) to design a sign. This sign would be for grocery stores to post to alert customers as to which fish have high amounts of mercury and who is at risk.

For you fish and sushi lovers like me- it's super important information to know about. Thanks!! Check it out Here.

Oh AirTel!

Free when you buy AirTel Sim Card for making Calls/SMSing in India!

1. Receive a daily prayer at 9 am.
2. Receive a daily quote from Bhavard Gita
   
3. Receive daily match- making phone calls

Maren Singing at Lodi Garden

Awesome job Maren!!!!

Dan: “I’m Converting to Sikhism”

Amritsar is amazing. The Taj Mahal may be hailed as the national icon of India, but it is said that more people visit the Golden Temple of Amritsar, or Sri Harmandir Sahib, it’s real name. It’s the holiest temple for the Sikhs.

It's located in Punjab, a state in northwest India that borders Pakista. (Amritsar is about 25 km from the Wagh border with Pakistan)

Before coming to India, I knew nothing about this religious group. Still, I feel I know very little about them- but over the weekend their warmth, amazing devotion, and incredible hospitality amazed me.

There are several free/small fee basic places to stay on the premise of the Golden Temple for pilgrims and foreigners. Sri Harmandir Sahib is in the center of a pool. To enter, you have to take off your shoes and socks and have your head covered. Whether it’s broad daylight, or the middle of the night, the shrine has an everlasting glow. Walking into the temple itself we are even invited to drink the holy water.

One of the most fascinating parts of the complex is Langar, the Community Kitchen. It’s free. It serves over 50,000 people a day. You walk in and are handed tin trays, then led inside a huge hall. The first time you go in, you are mesmerized. You follow the crowd in sitting down cross-legged. The Kitchen works like clockwork. As soon as we are seated, someone comes with water and in the opposite direction, someone else is pouring a steaming pot of dal down the aisle, then comes the warm gourd. You hold out both your hands and are tossed a couple chapaits. Everyone devours the food at Indian speed (which could rival that of any eating contest contender). We are offered seconds, thirds. Dan loves the endless chapatti.

At our last community kitchen meal, Dan befriended one of the workers, Ritchie. He gave us a tour of the facility- from the enormous barrels where they make the rice, dal, and of course- the wondrous chapatti machine. It spits out thousands of chapattis in an hour. There are half a dozen people stacking the fresh chapattis to be into baskets.

I did mention this community kitchen serves food 24/7, right???

The Langar is obligated to serve everyone who walks in regardless of religion, age, nationality, ethnicity, etc. I can't imagine how much harder it must have been before such inventions like the 'chapati machine' were around....

After the tour we sit outside the kitchen with Ritchie drinking warm milk with sugar from tin bowls. It’s a surreal experience. Dan’s broken Hindi and Ritchie’s Punjabi overlap- and he speaks some English too. We find out he’s an electrician and works here in the evenings because he loves it so much. I can see why. Most of the workers are volunteers who have real jobs and use their spare time to help out in the kitchen. He mentions a few places in the U.S. I asked if he wants to go there. His voice had what I mistook to be a wistful tone as he recited the names of a few cities he knew about and of course, George W. Bush. He shook his head, ‘No, no’ and explained how happy he was in Punjab, in India.

After a few ‘snaps’ (photo shootings), and email/phone number exchange, we say our goodbyes. Harmandir Sahib gleams under the moonlight, as thousands of people bow down and pray. The Punjabi chanting (which is a continuous reading of Guru Granth Sahib) echoes on into the night. Regardless of your religious affiliation, journeying to Amritsar is a pilgrimage worth taking.

a Weekend as a Movie Star.......

I spent this past weekend given the VIP treatment in Amritsar. I have gotten used to the stares that I receive from being a foreigner, especially a tall, female one with very light hair. Sometimes the stares are curious, some even hostile, but in Punjab the constant glances came with a nice surprise- huge smiles. Children running up to shake my hand, people asking for a picture with me, even one mother who handed me her four month-old baby daughter to pose for pictures.

Dan and I stop for a rest outside the Martyr’s Gallery- (a memorial for a massacre that occurred in 1919 when a British general, Dryer, fired upon unarmed, peaceful Indians who were having a nationalist rally).it’s a grave memorial thought most of the visitors are smiling families and school children, posing for pictures.

We sit down to thumb through the Lonely Planet, and look up to find over fifty students surrounding us, smiling, laughing, and asking for our names. This happens again and again. We are given Kit-Kat bars, offers of peanuts, desserts, assistance in getting a room ….

So, it is a bit annoying when you are reading about a painting, and realize the teenage boys behind you are trying to discreetly snap photos of you with their mobile phone. But it’s also quite flattering, when young girls approach you shyly and politely ask for a photo with you. It’s fun to feel like a movie star just for a weekend.

Below- posing with the kids of a family that wanted every possible shot imaginable with us.

After a family took several dozen pictures with us- we can’t help but wonder if they have more pictures of their holiest shrine, or these American foreigners. (Or as Dan phrased it- ‘more pics of the Golden Temple or my golden hair?’) We can only guess about how they will describe us, when they are showing their friends these pictures. But based on their smiles, I’d like to think they will say good things.

A few Old Pics of Old Delhi

First weekend in India was spent sightseeing in Old Delhi- which really is the most intense part of New Delhi.


It's full of contrasts. A spotlessly clean metro that's far nicer than DC or the London Tube, and then you walk and come face to face with the worst images.






But in the background are these historic wonders, the Red Fort.... (above)

and the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in all of India.

Kindness of Strangers

Just a little story I wanted to share about one of the many instances of unexpected kindness in India….

About a week ago, upon leaving the ‘Google Thomas’ party- we were met with the obstacle of finding a rickshaw home. It was a little after1 am, and the major road of Defense Colony is fairly busy even at this hour. We spend several minutes flagging rickshaws down- most are full- one does not want to bother with Malviya Nagar at this hour. I don’t understand how to tell difference between Rickshaw and a scooter at this hour- based on both having one headlight.

I accidentally flag one down. Two men in their twenties are on it- Dan already starts to give me the lecture of how there is no way we are riding with them. But what their offering is assistance in helping us with a rickshaw- after we explain to them what we were doing. Another scooter rider stops also to provide more assistance. So, we have three Indians valiantly hailing us a rickshaw- they stop one, convince him to take us to MN, and even negotiate a price for us. Dan’s flabbergasted at the unexpected chivalry. He says it must be the presence of the female. Perhaps it is, but the gesture completes the evening. We thank the strangers and wave goodbye. I can’t help but smile the whole rickshaw ride home.

sheesha for royalty

At this fancy restaurant on one of the island palaces of udaipur- there's a post it on the menu....

.....its for hookuah (sheesha) and it's by far the cheapest thing on the menu.

Udaipur

So, Udaipur has a zillion rooftop dinner places. Since everyone's competing for a view of the lake all the restaurants and hotels are built abnormally high. This particular one, was a nice hotel, which had its own special rooftop and private table....Right next to the city palace (in the background). Dan's taking in the twilight city views....


Here's a pic of the gorgeous Lake Palace in Udaipur....who knew something in Rajasthan could manage to stay so white.

Discovery of FabIndia….aka “the gap of India’

FabIndia

Well if gap also sold household stuff- like furniture, curtains, rugs, etc. J

Pretty awesome stuff that still manages to stay below the typical Western prices (though for India- it is expensive).

Traffic Rules of New Delhi

Riding a rickshaw (scooters that serve as taxis) through the streets of New Delhi is a cross between a roller coaster and a bumper car ride. You speed up, slow down, make sharp turns, and when you see that little space between a bus and an Ambassador, you gun it before the bicycle rickshaw beats you to it.

So, from my experiences on the roads of New Delhi, I have compiled a few rules I've learned to help me get safely to my destination.

Basic Traffic Rules:

Treat lane markers as road graffiti.

A red light means that maybe you should think about slowing down.

Nothing's wrong with crossing into the opposite traffic lanes. (so, look both ways when crossing a one-way street)

Honking means, I'm turning, I'm stopping, I'm going, get out of the way, a form of greeting, and probably a variety of explicits in Hindi that I haven't picked up yet.

And of course, cows always have the right of way.